Reflections from Pitti Uomo 95

Every six months, menswear industry heavyweights and enthusiasts alike descend into Florence from across the globe for the largest menswear trade show in the world, Pitti Uomo. Here are Sam’s reflections from winter #pitti95

Pitti Uomo

Held in Florence biannually at the historic Fortezza Da Basso, Pitti Uomo is the world’s biggest menswear trade show.

This was my second Pitti and first time attending in winter.

Florence was quieter and a little more relaxed, which was nice.

Winter was also ideal to showcase layering, hats, accessories and overcoats.

It’s also the right time to eat boar ragu pappardelle, carbonara, steak florentine, and minestrone soup, which are all specialties of the Tuscany region in January.

Aside from indulging in the local flavours, I wanted to see Europe’s 2019 winter style and network with brands from across the world.

Australia’s style seasons run six months behind the Autumn/Winter & Spring/Summer seasons of Europe, so it was helpful to see what is happening in Italy now.

It’s a long way from Australia to come for one week... but for me, it was worth it.

Why?

This is menswear Mecca.

Although Florence is a stunning town with beauty and history everywhere, the real highlight is the community of menswear enthusiasts.

It’s a genuine community and industry that has experienced unprecedented levels of growth globally in recent years.

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The People

Sure there are some peacocks in outlandish ensembles - but that doesn’t bother me too much.

The quality brands and iconic REAL influencers at Pitti are the cream of the crop.

In Melbourne, you simply don’t have the opportunity to meet the menswear icons available at Pitti.

Highlights were conversations with Nick Wooster, Luigi Cordone, Lock & Co, Huddersfield Textiles, Orazio Luciano and the Plaza Uomo gents, either at Pitti, events or over an Aperol Spritz at Cafe Gili.

Ph:  @the.kyu

What Business is Done at Pitti?

There are thousands of brands from around the world who make everything that you could possibly think of in menswear. From shoes to activewear, jewellery, boardshorts, hiking gear and more.

Whilst streetwear has been very popular at the Paris and Milan Fashion weeks over the last few years, classic tailoring is the heart and soul of Pitti Uomo.

Brands come to Pitti to establish relationships with buyers from international department stores such as Barney’s NY, Harrods London and other multi-brand stores.

‘Australian’ brands RM Williams and Neuw Denim were exhibitors this year.

For example, the buyers are at Pitti to select their sunglasses or ties that they will stock this season. Buyers get ideas about colours and trends from the stalls and in the crowd also.

Samuel Diamond Collaborations

I attended on behalf of my business Samuel Diamond Tailors as a buyer at Pitti searching for new products, ideas, and networking.

A couple of exiting collaborations to come in the near future include Samuel Diamond x Cordone shirts made by hand in Italy and custom baker boy by Hats by Samuel Diamond. Stay tuned for more.

I’m also working with a freelance jewellery designer from Florence who is designing a custom SD diamond shaped lapel pin, which I hope becomes the instantly recognisable mark of a Samuel Diamond suit.

So there is a bit going on and plenty of work to do.

It was an extremely worthwhile trip (and I’d be lying if the media coverage isn’t also a bonus).

But I wanted to let everyone in on what happened at Pitti 95, behind the scenes from Firenze.

It’s more than the peacocking.

There’s so much exciting stuff happening for us in 2019.

Ph:  @the.kyu

Social Media & Pitti

In 2009 photographer Scott Schuman (The Sartorialist) snapped Nick Wooster at Pitti and it changed everything.

Since then the thirst for quality menswear ideas and street style increased ten fold. The rising interest in mens style has been fueled by publications such as GQ, Esquire, The Rake and additionally online blogs.

Ground Zero for this movement has always been Pitti Uomo. Instagram accelerated growth in the industry by allowing men around the world to see the latest looks immediately.

Social media, for better or worse, has become a large part of the event.

Bloggers and street style photographers have a field day at Pitti and I’m all for it.

For menswear brands, buyers and bloggers, Pitti is the most important event on the calendar.

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Trends

  • Baker Boy caps
  • Cuffed Trousers
  • Brown/ Beige with white
  • Black & Brown 
  • Turtle Necks with Suiting
  • Prince of Wales Check - suiting Fabric
  • Slightly longer Trousers - single break
  • Socks - neutral colours
  • Three button 3/2 Roll Lapel
  • White Shirts with higher collar
  • Slightly looser trousers
  • Classic Menswear is back!

Florence

I also took the opportunity to shoot my AW19 for SD with photographer Kyu Ahn while in Florence. Big thanks to Kyu! He has a genuine love for classic menswear and is a very talented photographer.

It was a pleasure to spend time with my friends from Australia Callum J Rowe, Sam Wines & Freddy, Ty Henschke, Antoinette, Roberto & Lucy from Australia. Also great to make new friends and see old ones from Europe, Africa, Asia, Europe and America.

I hope to see you back at Pitti96 in June!

Ciao, Grazie!

Sam

Ph:  @the.kyu
Ph:  @the.kyu
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